Sleeve insertion for a lined Moneta dress

Hi everyone,

Today I will be going through how to attach the Moneta sleeves to a lined bodice.

I really like lining my bodices rather than doing the rolled hem method (as per the instructions within the Moneta booklet), as it gives a really nice clean finish and also an extra layer if it’s a winter dress.

I have two methods for attaching the sleeves- one where all the raw edges are hidden to give a really professional look (sleeve version 1), and a simpler, faster version (sleeve version 2).

 

SLEEVE VERSION 1

1. With fabric right sides together, pin the bodice front and back together at the shoulder seams and side seams. Stitch the seams using your preferred method. Repeat with the lining material.


2. Align the main bodice and lining bodice at the shoulder seams, right sides together, and pin. Lay flat, and pin the remainder of the neckline. Sew along the neckline.



If you have sewn this seam with a standard sewing machine, trim the seam allowance by 1/8”. This will help the seam feel less bulky when finished.

Once turned the right way, this will give a new clean neckline with the raw edges inside.

3. With right sides together, fold the sleeve pieces, aligning the side seams. Stitch the seams and repeat with the second sleeve.


4. Lay the bodice and sleeves out, right sides facing out. The notches on the bodice will line up with the sleeve notch. Although they opening of the bodice does not look like it will fit with the sleeve, it does. Don’t worry.


5. Reaching in between the shell and the lining and grab the two small notches on the bodice, turning them inwards (so the right side of each side is facing together).
Insert the sleeve notch in between the bodice notches.

Pull the notches out. This will force the bodice to turn inside out.


6. Pin the three notches together.


7. Align the side seams and pin. Match the circle mark on the sleeve piece to the shoulder seam.

When pinning this shoulder seam, make sure the other side of the bodice or the sleeve does not get caught up in the pinning.

8. Stitch the arm hole from shoulder seam to the side seam.

Once turned back the right way, it will look like this.


The back will look like this…

9. As the back of the arm hole is still open, repeat steps 5-8 to attach the back of the sleeve.

10. Repeat steps 5-9 for the second sleeve.

Once turned back the right way, the sleeve will be attached all the way round, with all seams hidden between the bodice and the lining.



SLEEVE VERSION 2

1. With fabric right sides together, pin the bodice front and bodice back at the shoulder seams. Stitch with your preferred method. (At this point, leave the side seams open!)

Repeat with the lining fabric.

2. Align the main bodice with the lining bodice at the shoulder seams, right sides together. Pin the neckline, joining the bodice with the lining. Sew along the neckline.

If you have sewn this seam with a standard sewing machine, trim the seam allowance by 1/8”. This will help the seam feel less bulky when finished.

Once turned the right way, this will give a new clean neckline with the raw edges inside.


3. Lay the bodice flat, with the right side facing up.

Match the circle marking on the sleeve piece with the shoulder seam and pin.

4. Match up the notches of the sleeve with the bodice pieces, and the under arm and pin, making sure to pin all three layers (sleeve, bodice and lining).


5. Match up the rest of the sleeve line with the bodice.

The sleeve edge will be slightly longer than the bodice, so ease the difference. Using lots of pins will make this easier.


6. Stitch along the sleeve edge using your preferred method.


7. Repeat steps 3-6 for the second sleeve.

8. Line up the side seams, matching up the notches on the bodice and the underarm seam and sleeve edges. The bodice side seam will have four layers of fabric… make sure all four layers are caught when you pin the seams.

Pin and stitch as one continuous seam. Repeat for the other side seam.



Once you have sewn the side seams, you will have finished the lined bodice with sleeves.


I personally don’t mind having the side seams seen from inside, and the second method I have shown is definitely a lot quicker.

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them below and I will get back to you.

Happy sewing!!

Love, Abigail x

___________________________
For version 1, I used Art Gallery Fabrics buttercup jersey, kindly given to me by Minerva Crafts.

For version 2, I used Bolt by Girl Charlee, kindly given to me by Girl Charlee UK.

2 thoughts on “Sleeve insertion for a lined Moneta dress

    1. Hey. I find that it isn’t a problem personally. The fabric I use is quite sturdy and thick, but yes if you used thinner, more drapey jersey it might be worth cutting it smaller. Or you could stitch the neckline with a twin needle or zig zag stitch to keep it still ☺️

      Liked by 1 person

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